Monday, May 18, 2015

What to Pack for Dubai

Before I left for Dubai, I spent a lot of time frantically Googling what I should bring with me. The UAE is a Muslim country, so I knew I'd need to be covered up, but it's also a hot country, so I knew I'd want to stay cool.

Additionally, there are different dress requirements depending on where you're going to be in the city. In the streets, souks, and malls, the dress code is strictest. Women should wear loose-fitting clothing that covers their shoulders and knees and doesn't show any cleavage.

In Dubai, the mall has a dress code.

However, when you're at your hotel or a primarily Western establishment, shorts and tank tops are perfectly fine. At the beach or the waterpark, you'll see lots of women in bikinis. If you go to a nightclub, there will be no shortage of short, tight, skin-baring dresses.

Navigating that social minefield is tricky. This is what I packed:

I am normally not a fan, but for our Dubai trip, I purchased a maxi dress, and it was perfect for the Middle East. I wore it to the Sheikh Zayed Mosque with a hijab, to a fancy dinner at Emirates Palace with a statement necklace and a pashmina over my shoulders, and I wore it as a cover-up at the beach.

I knew I couldn't wear shorts, but jeans would be too hot. As a compromise, I brought two pairs of cropped chinos, and I lived in them all week. I paired them with a t-shirt or a lightweight button-down shirt for the perfect covered-but-cool look.

The most essential item to bring on your trip to Dubai is a pashmina. I brought a simple black one and bought a pretty patterned one in the textile souk. I used mine as a shawl, a hijab, and a scarf for chilly evenings.

With these essentials, you'll be comfortable, cool, and stylish in any location or situation in Dubai.

Friday, May 8, 2015

Dubai Trip: Part 3

While Dubai itself is a pretty awesome destination, there are some great side trips to be had. In fact, my favorite activity of the trip didn't even take place in the UAE!

The Musandam Peninsula of Oman is only about a 3-hour drive from Dubai, but it feels worlds away. As you drive away from Dubai, the landscape gets rockier. The border sits right on the Persian Gulf, and you can see dozens of oil tankers just off-shore. The craggy mountains and bright blue water are truly beautiful.

The Musandam Peninsula is separated from the rest of Oman by the UAE (kind of like how Alaska is separated by Canada), and it's a very remote region characterized by its fjords. The largest town in the region is Khasab, which only has a population of about 17,000 people. In Khasab, we boarded a boat for six hours of cruising the fjords.

I have about 150 more pictures of the gorgeous fjords, but this is my favorite.

It was a sunny, 80-degree day, perfect for a leisurely boat ride. The tour guide pointed out various sights, but most of our time was spent quietly relaxing. The crew provided a delicious lunch of fried chicken, salad, and hummus, and we got to try Omani tea, which was quite tasty. Humpback dolphins call the fjords their home, and we were lucky to see quite a few.

See them down there? There was a pod of 4 dolphins that put on a little show for us.
The Musandam Peninsula features some of the best snorkeling in the Middle East, so we got to do that. I'd never actually been snorkeling before, and while I wasn't a huge fan, it was pretty cool to see the fish and plant life beneath the surface. Mostly, I just loved getting to swim around in the incredible setting.

I really, really enjoyed our time in Oman, and I'd love to return to see more of the country. If you ever find yourself in Dubai, you simply must take a day to get over to Musandam and see the fjords. It's spectacular.

Our other trip out-of-town was to the capital of the UAE, Abu Dhabi. We spent one night there, but were in the city for less than 24 hours. Still, I'm glad we went. It felt very different than Dubai. It was greener and the pace of life was slower. If I had to live in the UAE, I'd probably prefer to live in Abu Dhabi over Dubai.

One of the chief tourist attractions in the whole country is the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, and it was our first stop in Abu Dhabi.

The mosque - like most things in the UAE - is relatively new. Construction finished in 2007. The mosque was the idea and now is the final resting place of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the founding president of the UAE. He was a very charitable man, and this mosque was built to unite the cultural diversity found in the Muslim world. He died in 2004 and his tomb is onsite.

There are a few tours offered each day, and I'm really glad that we decided to take one. Our guide, Mohammed, was informative, personable, and funny. I learned a lot about the mosque, but I also learned a lot about Islam in general and the history and culture of the UAE.

Because this is a working mosque and not just a tourist site, the dress code is very strict, especially for women, who must cover their ankles, elbows, and heads, and must wear loose-fitting clothing. If you want, you can wear an abaya provided by the mosque, but I just wore a maxi dress, cardigan, and a pashmina as a hijab. It was a very interesting experience wearing the hijab. It affected my peripheral vision, and because it was windy when we visited, I was always very aware of it and had to constantly adjust it. I'm glad I don't have to wear it on a daily basis.

Had to take a hijab selfie. I was so proud that it stayed on for an hour-and-a-half!

For our one night in Abu Dhabi, we had a fancy dinner at Mezzaluna, one of the restaurants at Emirates Palace. Emirates Palace is a gorgeous, 5-star hotel. The hotel is very luxurious, easily the nicest I've ever been in. The luxury was crystal clear when we saw a gold ATM inside. That's right; it's an ATM that dispenses gold. Only in the UAE!

The next morning, we had a super tasty breakfast at Jones the Grocer, and then took a nice walk along the Corniche.

I wish we would've had a bit more time to spend just hanging out in Abu Dhabi, but we had to get back to Dubai for one last adventure: one night at Atlantis.

You know the Atlantis resort in The Bahamas? The one made famous by Mary-Kate and Ashley? Well, they have one in Dubai, too. It's located out on a man-made, palm tree-shaped island, and it's pretty swanky. We decided to splurge for our last night of vacation.

This is the view from our room. That's the resort's giant aquarium. We could watch sharks and rays and all kinds of fish  swimming around from our balcony!

We aren't normally "relaxers" when we're on vacation; we like to do lots of things and see lots of places. But for our last day, we tried relaxation on for size at Atlantis's multiple pools and their extensive beachfront.

I could maybe get used to this kind of vacation.
But we couldn't get too comfortable with comfort. After all, Atlantis has the number 1 water park in the Middle East and Europe, and as hotel guests, we got free, unlimited access!

This is a conveyor belt that will take you back up to the top of the water slides so you don't have to walk. I love Dubai.

Because our flight back home wasn't until midnight, we planned it out so that we could spend the whole day hanging out and relaxing at Atlantis before going to the airport in the evening. We checked our bags at the front desk, kept small bags with a change of clothes and some necessary toiletries in lockers at the park, and spent the whole day getting wet and wild. It was a fantastic way to close out our time in Dubai.

Overall, we had a fantastic trip to Dubai (and Oman and Abu Dhabi). Even though Dubai can be a little superficial, I think we did a good job getting underneath the surface just a little to experience a bit of Emirati culture. I'm really glad that we did the mosque tour because it answered a lot of my questions about Islam and Muslim culture, and I'm glad that we took the time to go to the Dubai Museum to learn about the city before the skyscrapers and million-dollar cars. I definitely enjoyed the Middle East, and I can't wait to return.

Wednesday, May 6, 2015

Dubai Trip: Part 2

There's a lot that is shiny and new about Dubai, but there's also a section of town called Bur Dubai that will give you a feel for how things were before the glitz and glamour took over.

A great place to start is the Dubai Museum. The museum itself is housed inside of a fort that was built in 1787 and is the oldest existing building in Dubai. The exhibits inside take visitors through the history of the city and how it evolved from a small pearling village to the global destination it is today.

Outside the Dubai Museum with a dhow (traditional Arab ship) in the background

After learning how people used to live in Dubai, you can experience it for yourself. Around the corner from the museum is Al Bastikiya, a small neighborhood with beautiful buildings dating back to the 1890s. It's a very peaceful and enchanting area. Over 100 years ago, the buildings were the homes of wealthy pearl traders, but now, they're mostly filled with art galleries, shops, and restaurants.

The tower on this building was a precursor to air conditioning. The tower would catch the cool breezes and funnel them down into the home.

While walking around, we stumbled upon a small calligrapher's shop. We had the owner write our last name in Arabic calligraphy. When we got home, we framed it and now it hangs in our home. It's my favorite souvenir.

Along the banks of the Dubai Creek are the traditional souks, or open-air markets. We started off in the textile souk. Don't be afraid to haggle hard! Also, check the tags. When the salesman tells you the scarf is silk but you find out 2 days later it's polyester, you'll be annoyed that you spent so much. Not that I have any experience with that...

The salesman dressed Adam up. Then, he told him he was an honorary Arab and that he looked like a sheikh. Nice sales technique, but we were onto him.

On the other side of Dubai Creek are the Gold and Spice Souks.

Both are neat to see and are great photo ops, but I found the gold souk in particular very underwhelming. It's basically just a block full of a bunch of jewelry stores. In fact, the photo above was taken through the shop window. But if you have money to spend, the prices are pretty good.

The best part of visiting the souks was getting to take an abra across the Creek. For just 1 dirham (about $0.30), you can get out on the water for a few minutes and experience a different view of the city.

I'm on a boat!

One of the more popular tourist activities in Dubai is a desert safari, and even though it is a bit cliche, it was a lot of fun. First of all, seeing the desert is incredible. The sand is so fine and soft, and it extends as far as the eye can see.

The landscape begs for jumping pictures.

We took the Evening Desert Safari with Dubai Desert Safari Tours, but all of the companies basically offer the same thing. The guides drive Toyota Land Cruisers (some of the fancier companies have Land Rovers), and the first part of the tour is spent riding up and down the sand dunes. Adam love this, but I found it a bit nauseating and terrifying. I was happy when we pulled into the camel farm. That's right: camel farm. We got to feed baby camels!


The evening ended at a camp where we had dinner. There were lots of activities at the camp, like henna tattoos, sandboarding, and camel rides. We took advantage of everything, especially the camel ride.

Another unofficial activity was sunset-watching. Nailed it.

For dinner, they served a buffet of delicious Arabic food like grilled lamb and chicken, hummus, tabbouleh, baba ghanoush, saffron rice, lentil salad, and pita with za'atar. While we ate, we were entertained by artists performing traditional Middle Eastern dances. First, there was a fantastic belly dancer. My abs were sore just watching her!

The second performer was a man who did an Egyptian folk dance called Tanoura. Similar to the Whirling Dirvishes of Turkey, a Tanoura performer spins in a circle while wearing a long, colorful skirt.

This guy got fancy halfway through when he lit up his outfit and then took off one of his skirts to reveal another one underneath. It was really impressive.

At the end of his performance, he looked around the crowd for someone to try it out and picked me! Not gonna lie, I was pretty good at it. Thanks, years of ballet class, for teaching me how to spot!

But seriously, I was pretty dizzy by the end.

Even though there's a lot about Dubai that's superficial and fairly sanitized, I really fell in love with Arabic culture on this trip, and I am already plotting my return the Middle East.

Next up: we get out of town.

Tuesday, May 5, 2015

Dubai Trip: Part 1

Every four years, Adam's company gives its employees a 6-week sabbatical. Sadly, I do not get that perk, but we decided to take a "spring break" trip for a week of Adam's time off. Back at the beginning of January, we searched plane tickets to a bunch of destinations all over the world, and the winner turned out to be Dubai. It wasn't really on our radar, but the plane tickets were reasonable, so off we went at the end of March!

After a long flight with a layover in Zurich, we arrived late Saturday night. We hopped in a cab and checked into our hotel for a long-awaited night's sleep. The next morning, we woke up around 8am with no jet lag! The moral of the story is: If you're going to Dubai, schedule a flight that gets in late, and then force yourself to stay awake on the plane.

We set off to grab breakfast and explore a bit. Our hotel was in Downtown Dubai, an area that contains the Burj Khalifa and the Dubai Mall. We had a delicious breakfast at Baker and Spice before checking out the mall. The Dubai Mall is the biggest mall in the world, and man, is it massive. With 1,000+ stores and dozens of restaurants, it's no wonder it attracts 65 million visitors every year.

I loved this cool waterfall feature in the food court area.
In addition to shops and restaurants, the mall hosts an aquarium, an indoor theme park, and an Olympic-sized ice rink. Naturally, the perfect place to practice our winter sports is in the desert, so we rented some skates for a quick spin around the ice.

Adam practiced his spirals. He's basically Michelle Kwan.

Speaking of winter sports, a few days later, we checked out another gigantic mall and went skiing! That's right; we went skiing in a mall in the middle of the Arabian Desert. Only in Dubai!

Yes, it's real snow, and yes, it's cold.

After exploring the mall, we hopped in a cab and went down to the Marina. We walked around for a bit, enjoying the architecture and trying to figure out a scheme to get onto a yacht. (Sadly, we were unsuccessful.) We eventually made our way over to the Jumeirah Beach Walk to get up close and personal with the Persian Gulf.

Back at our hotel, we took advantage of the gorgeous rooftop pool with incredible views. It was so nice escaping the cold temperatures in Chicago (it snowed while we were gone!), and this was one of our favorite ways to unwind on our trip.

It's very difficult to get a photo with this whole building in the frame.

That evening, we went to the top of the Burj Khalifa. It's pretty incredible to see the city from above. There's so much development everywhere, but the city just completely drops off into the desert with no warning. Unlike most American cities, there are no suburbs. In Dubai, you're either in the city or you're in the desert. There's no in-between. The demarcation is very obvious from 1,500 feet in the air.

This is the view of Downtown Dubai. You can see where the city ends toward the top of the picture.
We capped off our very long first day in the city with dinner at Pai Thai, a restaurant at Madinat Jumeirah, one of the five-star resorts in town. The only way to access the restaurant is by taking an abra (an Arabian boat) through the resort's canals. Not only was the setting beautiful, but the food was delicious. We started off with spring rolls and a crispy beef dish. For an entree, I had green curry with chicken and coconut rice. We sat out on the deck, watching the boats drive by. It was a relaxing and romantic evening, the perfect way to kick off our stay in Dubai.

This is the view from our abra ride. That's the Burj Al Arab, the most luxurious hotel in the world.
The best way to end your day in Dubai is to check out the fountain show at the Dubai Fountain. Think the Bellagio fountain, but even bigger. We saw a few different shows during our stay, but our favorite, hands down, was the one set to Lionel Ritchie's "All Night Long." I mean, how can you not love that?

Next up: We experience the more traditional side of Dubai.

Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Book Report: Galway Bay

I haven't done a book report in a while because even though I've been reading quite a bit, I haven't found anything I've been dying to share with you guys. Well, that changed when I read Galway Bay by Mary Pat Kelly.

Galway Bay follows the journey of Honora Keeley and six generations of her family. Honora is born and raised in a small fishing village on Galway Bay. She falls in love and starts her own family in the "before times." Then, blight strikes the potato crop and famine takes over the Galway countryside. Honora vows that her children will live, and sets off with them to make the long journey to Chicago, where they continue to weather the hardships that came with being Irish.

Honora narrates the novel in the great tradition of Irish storytelling. Even though it's a long book at 576 pages, I didn't want to put it down because Honora herself was so captivating. The book is peppered with Irish folktales that were passed down to her by her grandmother, as well as tidbits of Irish language, history, and politics. It's a gripping, truly epic tale that inspires the reader.

One of my 30 Before 30 items is to research my family's genealogy. Coincidentally, I started doing that at the same time I began this book. My family has a very proud Irish heritage, and I recently learned that many of my ancestors came to America during the Great Famine. Through Honora's words, I saw the faces of my great-great-great-great grandparents trying to keep their children alive during the Famine and escaping with them on boats to America. I pictured my grandfather growing up in an Irish-American neighborhood on the south side of Chicago, and myself as a little girl on his lap, listening to the stories he learned from his grandparents. I remembered my time spent living in Ireland, learning Irish history and the Irish language, and seeing Galway Bay for myself. If you've never been to Ireland, this book will make you want to go.

I cried when I finished this book and promptly ordered a copy for my grandmother. I hope it will finally convince her to let me take her to Ireland. A+

Monday, April 13, 2015

How to Prepare Your iPhone Before Vacation

One of the major differences in travel now versus travel 10 years ago is the ubiquity of smartphones. My iPhone is an invaluable travel partner, but only if I'm prepared. Before your next vacation, spend a little time preparing your iPhone to achieve its maximum potential with the following tips.

Download apps
On my iPhone, I have an entire folder full of apps I only use while traveling. I always have my airline's app loaded up with my itinerary, and I keep push notifications turned on so that I'm the first to know about any changes. There are also third party flight trackers like TripTracker that accomplish the same thing. I also download my mobile boarding pass to the Passbook app that comes pre-loaded on all iPhones because paper boarding passes are a pain.

Make space
If you're like me, you end up using your phone for most of your picture-taking on vacation. In South America, I ran out of storage on my phone and had to use Adam's for the last couple of days. In Dubai, I was determined to not let that happen again, and I deleted all the photos from my phone before we left. However, 3 days in, that pesky "memory full" message popped up. What I realized is that my iPhone saves every single photo I send or receive via text or iMessage. I had 3.5 GBs of photos in my Messages app! To delete those photos:

  1. Open a text message thread and click on "details" in the top right corner.
  2. Scroll down, and you'll find a gallery of all your attachments from that thread.
  3. If you press and hold down on a photo, the option to delete it will pop up.
  4. Repeat 1-3 until you have plenty of storage available.

Download entertainment for the journey (and delete it when you're done)
Download podcasts to listen to on the plane, and make Spotify playlists and Amazon Prime videos available offline. Some of my favorite podcasts are Freakonomics Radio, Stuff You Missed in History Class, and 99% Invisible.

Take photos of important documents
Keep a photo of your passport and/or driver's license on your phone, in case you lost it or it gets stolen. Take a photo of the contents of your checked bag in case the airline loses it. I also like to snap a photo of my hotel room number once I arrive because I can sometimes be forgetful after a long day of exploring.

These next tips are for international travelers only.

Get a local SIM card OR call your carrier and set up a data roaming package
The great part about the iPhone is that you can use it anywhere around the world, but you'll have to make at least one modification first. You have two options for cellular data while abroad: getting a local SIM card, or setting up a data package with your US carrier.
To get a SIM card, Google your model of phone plus the name of the country you'll be visiting and "SIM card." They typically cost around $10-20, and then you can get service through a local cellular provider. Your phone must be unlocked for a local SIM to work, though.
If that sounds like too much of a hassle, you can prepay for a small amount of roaming data through your US provider. We are Verizon customers, so 100 MB of data costs just $25. We put it on just one of our phones (typically mine) and use it only in emergencies. For 10 days in South America, we used less than 30 MBs, and we used only 11 MBs in Dubai.

When you get there, turn off your data
Go to Settings > Cellular, and switch off "Cellular Data." Then, click on "Roaming," and switch off "Voice Roaming." You should also switch off the ability to use cellular data for most of your apps (at the bottom of the "Cellular" screen) because you don't want them running in the background and using up your precious data.

Thursday, March 19, 2015

Lately I'm Loving: ClassPass

It has now been a little over month since I signed up for ClassPass, and I think I'm addicted. I have gone to 19 classes so far!

ClassPass, for those who haven't heard of it, is an unlimited pass for boutique fitness classes. For $99/month (or $79/month in some places), you can go to as many classes as you want every month. In Chicago, there are over 150 studios that participate. Pretty much anything you can think of is offered, from yoga to kickboxing to dance classes to rowing.

ClassPass is perfect for me for a few reasons:
1) I hate gyms. I recently canceled my gym membership because I just never went. I get bored easily at the gym, and I often find it intimidating, especially in the weight room.
2) The price. At $99/month, ClassPass is a bit pricey, but I find that paying that amount motivates me to get my money's worth. Many of these studios charge $20 or more per class. If I go to 5 classes a month, I know I'm just breaking even. If I go to 15, I know I'm getting a steal.
3) Variety is the spice of life. I love that I can try lots of new things, so I never get stuck in a rut. I have taken spin classes, barre classes, hardcore HIIT classes, and even aerial yoga. This variety has helped me to discover new things. For instance, I apparently love spinning! I also get to check out neighborhoods in the city that I rarely visit.
4) The schedule. One reason gyms never work for me is because there's no scheduled start time. I can vaguely say, "I'm going to go to the gym today," but often, I wouldn't go, or I would go and only stay for 30 minutes. It's a lot more motivating knowing I have a specific class at a specific time, and I can't arrive late or leave early. Also, ClassPass charges you $20 if you cancel a class less than 12 hours beforehand or if you just don't show up. This forces me to go work out, even when I don't really feel like it.
5) It travels. I haven't taken advantage of this yet, but you can use your ClassPass in any city where it's offered. My best friend lives in Saint Louis and just signed up, so I can't wait to go visit her and take a class.
6) It's fun! I seriously enjoy working out and look forward to it all day.

All of these factors have helped me become a healthier person overall. It's motivated me to eat healthier food, drink more water, and prioritize my time better. My newly discovered love of spinning makes me want to get my real bike out of storage and possibly attempt a triathlon this summer. I can already tell that I'm building muscle and becoming a better runner. I even sleep better!

Anyone else addicted to ClassPass? What classes should I try?

***Disclaimer: I have not been paid to say any of this. I just really like ClassPass!